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Tozeur

History never sleeps in Tunisia. Here is something that dates back to 8000 BC. Tozeur is one of the most popular travelers' stops in Tunisia, and has been so since Capsian times (from 8000 BC). Its principal attractions are a labyrinthine old town, a spectacular museum and its enormous palmeraie (palm forest) on the northern edge of the Chott el-Jerid. Some 435km (270mi) southwest of Tunis, just getting there is half the thrill: the road from Kebili crosses the chott (dried salt marsh) by causeway.

 Ouled el-Hadef, the city's delightful old quarter was built in the 14th century AD to house the El-Hadef clan, who had grown rich on the proceeds of the caravan trade. The area is a maze of narrow, covered alleys and small squares, and is famous for its traditional brick making methods. It will be worthwhile to take a look at the small but notable archaeology museum here.

It is at the Dar Charait Museum that you get a live show. It is the only museum in the country worth going out of your way to see just for the live show. It has an extensive collection of pottery and antiques, as well as an art gallery, but its star features are the rooms set up as replicas of Tunisian life, past and present. The museum attendants, dressed as servants of the Bey, set the tone. They include the bedroom of the last Bey, a palace scene, a hammam and a Bedouin tent.

Tozeur's palmeraie is the second largest in the country, with around 200,000 palm trees spread over an area of more than 10 sq km (4 sq miles). Water is a scarce commodity in these parts of Tunisia. But here you see any amount of fresh water springing from mother earth. It's a classic example of tiered oasis agriculture and is watered by over 200 springs producing more than 60 million litres of water per day. The best way to explore the palmeraie is on foot or by bicycle, which you can rent at the entrance.