SUUQ

 Suuq is the Arabic name for market, just as ‘medina’ is the Arabic name for town. But today in Tunis suuq is also referred to as medina. Most of what once was Tunis is today like one enormous shopping center and handicrafts factory. This expansion has even pushed out the local inhabitants in course of time and only a small percentage of the original population lives there now. 

The suuq is very orderly arranged. The arrangement of the suuqs are traditional for Muslim cities: the clean professions had their suuqs near the main mosque, while the unclean professions like dyeing and crude metal works were placed further away.  There are areas for goldsmiths, for metal workers, for fabrics etc. And then there is space for items of interest to tourists. This is of course the area you won't have to search to find. Just start at the Bab el Bahr, take the left entrance to the suuq, and you will be flooded with colorful shops. But one thing to be born in mind is that the prices are generally on the higher side and that all tat is available here are available at other tourist spots also. 

Most of traditional weaving has disappeared from the suuq, but still you may see actual weaving on handlooms in the Souk de la Laine, the weavers’ street. The fabrics made like this are expensive and only intended for well-off clients and special occasions. 

Just a few streets up from the main mosque, you will come to the gold jewelers' suuq, the Souk des Orfèvres, where gold of high carats is sold (Tunisians think of gold of European style (9 and 14 carat) as junk). The style isn't always very advanced, but in general you won't have to pay through your nose for the work either. These shops are in narrow alleys and often packed with customers. So it is better to have an eye on the security aspect. There is nothing to be alarmed, but don’t get totally lost in shopping. 

One interesting feature is the absence of beggars on the street and that all the women are wearing modern garments. Next to that, you will find yourself surrounded by people, but no Westerners. But more than anything else, use your time in and out of the suq, stroll along the vegetable stands, head into the meat and fish market (between the suq and the railway station), and end up in almost any café. Sit down, relax, take a look at people around, telling quick moving young men to get lost, and start talking with everyone else.