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Attractions : Jerba
and the South
Southern Tunisia has much to offer
including the island resort of Jerba and some fascinating
towns on the fringes of the Sahara Desert.
JERBA:
A
unique feature of this island town is that it has 354 mosques-
one for every day of the Islamic calendar. It is only 30 km
(19 miles) wide and 27 km (17 miles) long. Jerba is a popular
choice among holidaying Tunisians. it is connected to the
mainland by a causeway. There are also ferry services, which
operate between Ajim on Jerba and Jorf on the
mainland. While most tourists stay at the big beach hotels
within Jerba’s tourist zone 10-11 km (6-7 miles) east of
Houmt Souk, accommodation in the town itself includes simple
and comfortable fondouk hotels. Most have been built around
old courtyards and are very environmentally friendly.
The main centre, Houmt Souk, is
on the island’s north coast, only four miles from the
airport at Mellita. Houmt Souk means ‘marketplace’
and this remains the town’s primary occupation although it
also benefits from tourism.
Midoun – Jerba’s second
biggest town – springs to life on Fridays when its sprawling
market attracts a large crowd of local people and tourists. It
is worth arriving early as everything is over by lunchtime.
Guellala is a big
pottery-producing centre, which uses local clay quarried from
the hills above the village. Its main street is lined with
shops piled high with pots and plates.
The El Ghriba Synagogue at Erriadh
(also known as Hara Seghira) is one of the holiest
Jewish shrines in North Africa.
THE CHOTT EL JERID:
It is an exotic place with a
series of large lakes, which lie lifeless in summer but
evaporate during the winter to create inland seas. It is also
the focal point of Tunisia’s desert tourism industry.
Several
oasis towns have sprung up around Chott El Jerid – notably Tozeur
– now an established resort with a wide range of hotels
– most of them situated in a designated tourist zone 3km (2
miles) from the town centre.
Thousands
of date palms watered by 200 springs constitute Tozeur’s Palmery
The old town district known as Ouled
El Hadef comprises of a network of narrow alleys which
have changed little since the 14th century. Their distinctive
pale yellow brickwork with geometric motifs is considered a
marvel of Islamic art.
There is a small airport at Tozeur
served from Tunis by the domestic airline Tuninter with up to
five flights a week.
Nearby, Nefta is another oasis
town best known for its Corbeille, a deep gully filled
with palm trees, which can be explored on foot or by donkey.
DOUZ:
Also known as ‘The Gateway to
the Desert’, Douz is best visited on its Thursday market
day, which attracts traders from a wide area selling
everything from dates and spices to sheep and camels.
Douz
also hosts an annual Festival of the Sahara – usually held
in November or December – which includes camel and greyhound
racing, folk dancing and poetry recitals.
The
Douz Museum explores the history and culture of the
Tunisian desert.
It
is also a major centre for desert trekking – either by camel
or in four-wheel-drive vehicles.
Anyone planning a desert safari needs
to inform the National Guard and ensure their vehicle is
equipped with a full tool kit and handbook, spare tyres, fuel
and water, a compass and emergency rations. It is also
advisable to hire a local driver.
MATMATA:
Situated
between Jerba and Tozeur,
Matmata has become a very popular halt for visitors to the
country after the release of the film Star Wars: The
Phantom Menace. Matmata’s torglodyte houses were
featured in the opening sequence of the original Star Wars movie.
The cave dwellings, which date from the fourth century BC, are
built on two levels, consisting of storage rooms above with
living accommodation below. Some are still inhabited and can
be visited by arrangement with the owners. One or two have
been turned into hotels – a stay for a night will certainly
be an unusual experience.
Made from mud and stone and three or
four stories high, ’ksour’ are another strange type of
buildings found in the deep south of Tunisia. They were built
around a courtyard and used as secure storage units for grain.
They are most often seen in and around Medenine and Tataouine.
One of the best preserved is the Ksar Ouled Soltane 24km
(15 miles) east of Tataouine. Buildings in its first courtyard
are more than 400 years old while the inner complex dates from
around 1850.
EXCURSIONS: An
interesting day trip from Tozeur or Nefta is exploring the
mountain villages of Tamerza, Chebika and Mides. The
original village of Tamerza was abandoned after catastrophic
flooding in 1969 but visitors can still walk through its
eerily empty streets.
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